The short version

Porcelain itself is strong. What needs protecting is the decoration on top of it: the gold, the hand-painted flowers and the enamel colors that were fired onto the glaze. On most antique Limoges this decoration sits on the surface rather than under the glaze, so it wears with rubbing, scouring and harsh detergents. Conservation guidance from the Canadian Conservation Institute notes that overglaze decoration and gilding are easily worn away by repeated use, handling and cleaning.

So the rules are simple. Wash by hand, gently. Never use a dishwasher or microwave. Store and display pieces so they cannot knock against one another. And when in doubt, do less.

Washing by hand

No dishwasher, ever. Hot water, strong detergent and the jostling of a dishwasher rack will dull and eventually strip gold and painted decoration. The Museum of Royal Worcester gives the same advice for any valued ceramics.

No microwave. The gold on Limoges is real metal. In a microwave, metallic trim can spark, and the heat can damage the decoration, the glaze or an old repair.

To wash a piece:

1. Pad the sink. Lay a folded towel or a rubber mat in the bottom of the sink or use a plastic basin. Remove rings and bracelets.
2. Use lukewarm water. Not hot. Sudden changes in temperature are hard on old porcelain and any repairs.
3. Add a few drops of mild dish soap. Plain, gentle soap only. Avoid anything with lemon, bleach, abrasives or “degreasing” claims.
4. Wash one piece at a time. Use a soft cloth or sponge, never the scouring side. Do not rub hard over gold or raised enamel.
5. Rinse well in clean lukewarm water, so no soap is left behind.
6. Dry straight away with a soft, lint-free cloth. Pat rather than scrub across the gold. Let pieces air-dry the rest of the way on a towel before putting them away.

Pieces kept on display rarely need washing. A soft brush or clean, dry cloth usually takes care of dust, and every wash is another chance for handling damage.

Crazing, stains and old repairs

Crazing is the fine network of hairline cracks in the glaze that you see on many older pieces. It is common and is not in itself a sign that a piece is about to break. Crazing can, however, pick up stains, because dirt and food oils can work their way into the tiny cracks. Avoid soaking crazed pieces for long periods.

Stains are tempting to attack, but please resist. Do not use bleach, oven cleaner or abrasive powders. Strong chemicals can damage gold and overglaze colors, and the Museum of Royal Worcester advises against household bleach on valued ceramics. A stain is better left alone than made worse.

Old repairs are easy to miss. Look for glue lines, patches where the color or gloss does not quite match, overpainting, or metal staples. Repaired areas are weaker, and many older adhesives soften in water, so dust repaired pieces rather than washing them.

For anything serious, such as a chip, a crack, a loose repair or a stubborn stain on a valuable piece, please consult a professional ceramics conservator or restorer. The American Institute for Conservation keeps a public directory where you can search for a conservator who specializes in ceramics.

Storage

Most damage to porcelain happens not on the table but in the cupboard, when pieces rub or knock against each other.

• Separate plates. Place a felt, foam or quilted plate divider between every plate, or use a paper plate or soft cloth if that is what you have. This protects the gold on the face of each plate from the foot ring of the one above.
• Keep stacks short. Weight from above stresses the plates below.
• Do not stack cups. Stand cups side by side with a little space between them. Stacking presses on thin rims and wears the gold. Avoid cup hooks, which hang the whole weight on the handle.
• Choose a stable spot. Quilted china storage cases work well for sets you rarely use. Avoid damp basements and hot attics.

Hanging plates on the wall

Traditional wire spring hangers grip the rim under tension, and over time they can chip or wear the edge, rub the gold, or let go as the springs weaken. If you use one, choose the correct size, pick plastic-coated clips, and never stretch a hanger to fit. For a valuable plate, an adhesive disc hanger made for plates or a grooved plate rail puts no tension on the rim.

Display

• Light. Keep porcelain out of direct sunlight, which can fade some colors, discolor old repairs and heat a piece unevenly.
• Cabinets. A closed glass cabinet keeps dust off, so you clean less. Give each piece its own space, and a thin felt pad under pieces on glass shelves softens vibration.
• Placement. Choose a level surface away from busy doorways, radiators and heating vents.
• Museum putty. A little removable museum putty or wax under the foot of a vase keeps it from walking off a shelf or tipping. Keep it off painted and gilded areas, test first on porous unglazed foot rims, and remove it by gently twisting the piece.

Using antique dinnerware for the holidays

Many collectors bring their Limoges out for Thanksgiving, Christmas or a family dinner. A few habits help:

• Serve, do not cook. Do not put antique pieces in the oven, microwave or on a warming tray, and do not pour boiling liquids into a cold cup or teapot. Warm teapots gradually with warm water first.
• Mind the cutlery. Steel knives can leave gray marks and scratch the gold on plate centers. Cutting gently helps.
• Clear and wash promptly. Do not leave acidic or salty food sitting on plates overnight. Scrape gently with a rubber spatula, not a knife.
• Wash in small batches, so plates are never piled in the sink.

See the note on lead below before deciding which pieces to use for food.

A careful note on lead

Lead was used in many ceramic glazes and decorating colors, and antique tableware was made before modern limits existed. That does not mean every antique plate contains lead, but you cannot tell for certain by looking.

The California Department of Public Health lists antique and inherited tableware as a concern, and notes that decoration on top of the glaze deserves caution, especially if it is worn or on a surface that touches food or a cup’s rim. Acidic foods and drinks such as citrus, tomatoes, juice, coffee, tea and wine draw out lead much faster, and heat speeds the process.

If you want to use antique dishes for food:

• Use them occasionally, not every day, and do not store food or drinks in them.
• Avoid acidic and hot foods in pieces with worn decoration on eating surfaces.
• Consider testing. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration notes that home lead test kits are sold at hardware stores and online, and that if a test finds lead, it strongly advises against using the piece for food or drink. A certified laboratory can give a more reliable result.
• Take extra care for children and anyone who is pregnant, who are most vulnerable to lead.

Many collectors simply keep their most decorated or most worn pieces for display. That is a sensible choice, and a beautiful one.

Packing for a move

1. Wrap each piece individually in clean, acid-free tissue or plain white packing paper, then in bubble wrap. Do not use newspaper, which can transfer ink, and never put tape directly on porcelain.
2. Pack lids separately from teapots, sugar bowls and boxes, and wrap handles and spouts with extra padding.
3. Stand plates on edge in a sturdy, double-walled box, like records in a crate, with padding between each one. Plates are stronger on edge than flat.
4. Fill hollow pieces such as cups and vases with crumpled tissue so they are supported from inside.
5. Leave no movement. Fill every gap so nothing shifts when the box is gently shaken, with at least two inches of padding on all sides.
6. Label the box “Fragile” and “This side up,” and carry the most valuable pieces yourself if you can.

Our shipping and returns page explains how we pack pieces sent from the gallery.

Frequently asked questions